Things to check on your gas-fired water heater

Gas Fired Water Heater Chimney & Venting Defects

Check for proper exhaust venting of combustion products from your gas fired water heater.

Old chimney warnings: Where a gas fired water heater is connected to a large masonry chimney it may not be able to develop sufficient draft to vent properly. The result could be dangerous spillage of flue gases into the building.

Shared flue warnings: Where a gas fired water heater shares a chimney with other heaters such as a boiler, venting of the water heater’s combustion products may be unreliable, depending on whether the other larger appliance is operating or not.

Some jurisdictions do not permit sharing a flue between a gas fired appliance and other fuels such as oil; other communities may permit shared flues provided the gas vent is properly connected: usually entering the main chimney flue below rather than above the more powerfully-venting oil fired appliance.

Blocked or missing gas heater draft hood warning: on occasion we find items stored atop of a gas fired water heater, or as in this photo, debris which has been drawn into and around the draft hood, preventing safe venting of combustion gases from the building.

At the property where we took this photo, the occupants had kept a number of large, hairy, shedding dogs in the basement utility area and their hair had clogged the water heater vent.

Check for evidence of flue gas spillage at the gas fired water heater’s draft hood by looking for burn marks, rust, soot or debris.

The melting pipe insulation in our photo at left indicates that flue gas has been spilling from this water heater.

The burn marks in our right hand photo show a serious flue gas venting problem with the gas fired water heater.

If flue gas spillage detection sensors (spill switches) are required in your jurisdiction they must be properly installed, usually at the gas vent draft hood.(On some gas fired appliances such as furnaces or boilers additional sensors may be installed at or close to the gas burner as well.) Our photo at left shows that we found a flue gas spill switch lying atop of the gas fired water heater – it had never been installed.

Dangerous carbon monoxide warning & soot from gas appliances: If any gas fired appliance is producing soot it should be shut down immediately, inspected, and repaired before use. Soot from a gas appliance, or high levels of indoor moisture condensation that are traced to that appliance, are indicators of improper venting of combustion products and risk the production of dangerous, potentially fatal carbon monoxide gas.

Other Gas Fired Water Heater Defects

Check for proper combustion air supply for your gas fired water heater. Failure to provide sufficient combustion air is dangerous: lack of adequate combustion air will cause a gas burner to produce dangerous, potentially fatal carbon monoxide gas.

Check the pressure and temperature relief valve on your water heater: look for evidence of corrosion, leaks, improper installation, etc. A missing, modified, blocked, or leaky pressure relief valve is extremely dangerous and can lead to a catastrophic BLEVE boiling liquid vapor explosion that can cause severe damage or even fatalities at a building.Look for evidence of leaks in the hot water tank, or mechanical damage, or improper installation. For example most water heaters are intended to be installed in a vertical position. Installing a hot water tank horizontally or in a hole in a crawl space is likely to cause early failure of the heater, violate the manufacturer’s guidelines, and may be dangerous. In our photo at left an oil-fired water heater and an indirect-fired water heater are installed in tandem. That puddle on the floor needs investigation. Check the settings of the water heater temperature: See Temperature of Hot Water is Too Low. On a gas fired water heater the heater temperature control is usually on the gas valveitself.

Look for insulation that has been improperly added to the water tank – it may be unsafe. See Insulate Hot Water Tank?

Check the water piping and control valves connected to the water heater for leaks, support, and for proper location of shutoff valves. An improperly installed shutoff valve on a water heater can be very dangerous, risking an explosion. Usually the “hot water tank shutoff valve” is installed only on the cold water pipe coming into the water tank.

There should be no shutoff valve installed on the hot water line leaving the water tank.

Check for Gas Leaks: In addition to a characteristic odor that you may smell associated with LP or natural gas leaks, a prolonged gas leak may leave telltale dark stains on the gas piping or control. See Gas Leak Detection for details.

If plastic water piping is installed, such as polybutylene water supply piping, it should be at least 18″ from the water heater.

Vacuum relief valves are required at water heaters in some communities, to protect against collapse of the water storage tank and to prevent backup of hot water into the cold water piping should cold water pressure drop. Here is Carson Dunlop’s sketch of a vacuum relief valve.

Gas Water Heater Controls & Operation

Check that the temperature on your gas control has been set to a safe level.

Check the Sacrificial Anode & Dip Tube of Your Water Heater Tank

The dip tube on many water heaters functions as a sacrificial anode, as we show here. By constructing the dip tube of a metal which is more readily corroded than the steel of a steel hot water tank, the anode protects the hot water tank from early failure due to corrosion. Here Carson Dunlop‘s sketch shows the location of the sacrificial anode on an electric water heater.If your water supply happens to be highly conductive or corrosive (see WATER TESTING GUIDE) then the dip tub/sacrificial anode in the water tank may indeed corrode away until it leaks (dropping the hot water temperature) or disappears entirely. If your hot water smells like rotten eggs, you should definitely check the condition of the sacrificial anode on the hot water heater, no matter what kind of water tank you’ve got installed.

Stop Running Toilets from Wasting Your Water

Running toilets are not only noisy and annoying, they are wasteful, too. Fixing a running toilet is usually a simple, inexpensive fix any homeowner can do.

A running toilet is usually the result of one of two things: a poorly functioning ball-cock valve or flush-valve assembly. To find the source of your running toilet problem, take a look inside. Remove the top cover from the toilet, then flush and see what happens.

If the water runs but does not fill up the tank, the flush-valve (stopper ball) at the bottom of the tank is the problem.

1. To replace the stopper ball, turn off the water to the toilet tank. The shut-off is usually located behind and below the toilet tank. Flush the toilet.
2. Unhook the guide wires or chains that attach the stopper ball to the handle assembly. Remove the old, faulty stopper ball.
3. Set the new stopper into place on the valve seat. Slide the collar back down the overflow tube and center over the ball. Secure the collar to the ball.
4. Attach the ball chain to the handle arm, leaving half an inch of slack on the chain. Test the assembly and replace the toilet cover.

A running toilet can also be the result of a toilet tank that is overfilling, pouring water down the overflow tube. In a properly functioning toilet, the tank will stop filling about three-quarters of an inch below the top of the overflow tube. When you watch the internal mechanism of your toilet work, if water fills to the top and over the over-flow tube, the ball-cock assembly (float and arm) are the likely culprit. To test this, lift up on the float arm. If the overflow stops, the float assembly needs to be adjusted or replaced.

A float may malfunction if it is cracked and filling with water. The heavy ball does not rise high enough to lift the lever and stop the filling action. To fix a cracked ball-float, simply unscrew the ball (counterclockwise) from the end of the float arm and screw on a new float.

If the ball-float is intact, bend the float arm slightly and flush the toilet. If the tank fills properly, the problem is solved. If the tank continues to overfill after these measures, the washers on the ball-cock assembly are probably worn and need to be replaced. Turn off the water to the tank. Disassemble the ball-cock from the lever. Remove and replace the washers. Put the assembly back together and flush.

A toilet that is still overflowing after these measures needs a new fill valve. Purchase one and install according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

Most problems with running toilets are quickly fixed by troubleshooting and following these steps, or replacing inexpensive, internal mechanisms improperly functioning from wear after repeated use. Persistent problems that cannot be remedied may require consulting a licensed plumber.    

If you are having problems fixing your running toilet, Please give us a call at 978-821-0651

or visit our web site contact page

Garbage Disposer Tips

For the most part, garbage disposals are self-cleaning and virtually maintenance free. However, a malfunctioning garbage disposal can mean a messy headache, but one that can be avoided. Here are some ideas to keep your unit in good working order.

Always run cold water when grinding in order to move the waste all the way through the drain lines. Fats and grease congeal and harden in cold water which can then be flushed through the system. Don’t use hot water when grinding because it can dissolve fats and grease, which may then accumulate in the drainline. Almost all biodegradable food waste can be fed into disposals. However, do not throw down the disposal clam or oyster shells, corn husks or other material with a high fiber content. Under no circumstances should you put glass, plastic or metal non-food materials through a disposal. This includes bottle caps, tin covers or aluminum foil–these are some of the items service technicians commonly find in clogged or broken disposals.

Maintenance is easy. Grinding small bones and egg shells actually helps clean the disposal by scraping away stubborn deposits or citric acid and pulp. Grinding a little ice is another way to clean out deposits and get rid of odors.

Plumber in Danvers Massachusetts

High Efficiency Boilers

High efficiency boilers are furnaces that operate by taking advantage of condensing to lower energy consumption and energy bills. This type of boiler has been available for decades and is favored by many for its financial and environmental benefits.

How High Efficiency Boilers Work

High efficiency boilers save energy by recovering heat that would normally by removed through the flue system of an older model, non-condensing boiler. High efficiency gas boilers have large heat exchange mechanisms that enable them to maximize the transfer of heat from the burner. In the condensing mode, high efficiency boilers simply limit the loss of flue gases. This enables high efficiency boilers to take better advantage of heat produced.

Efficiency Ratings

Boiler models have efficiency ratings that rank from A to G. High efficiency boilers, which are always condensation models, have an A rating. A boilers efficiency is a concern for those who want to keep energy bills as low as possible.

Boilers Efficiency has Several Impacts

High efficiency boilers are considered the superior models for a few advantageous reasons over non-condensing models. High efficiency gas boilers not only save money, but they reduce the use of natural gasses, as well. This makes high efficiency boilers the more environmentally friendly choice.

 

Heating System Fall Tune Up

Homeowners are creatures of comfort, and with colder days ahead, now is the time to ensure your heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) systems are in tip-top shape to provide a comfortable indoor environment all winter long.

Ongoing maintenance and simple tune-ups can ensure your system runs properly and efficiently, helping to reduce costly energy and repair bills. American Standard Heating and Air Conditioning offers the following tips for ensuring consistent indoor temperature, humidity and air quality in the winter:

Arrange proactive maintenance

Schedule regular appointments with a heating and air conditioning dealer to come out and service your system before winter and again before summer.

Change the filters

Heating and air conditioning system filters should be changed every 30 days, or as often as recommended by the manufacturer. To help save on replacement costs, some manufacturers, such as American Standard, have cleanable filters that can be rinsed and vacuumed.

Check for leaks

Windows and doors are prime suspects for air leakage. Check around every frame for cracks, gaps and poor-fitting fixtures and seal leaks with caulking or weatherstripping.

Use the proper insulation

Check to make sure your home is insulated with materials that have the proper “R-value.” An R-value is the measurement of how well insulation resists heat flow. The higher the R-value, the better the insulating power. HVAC experts recommend using R-30 insulation in the ceilings and R-13 in the exterior walls.

Program the thermostats

Save energy by installing a programmable thermostat that adjusts the temperature during the day. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, by turning your thermostat back 10 to 15 degrees for 8 hours, you can save 5 percent to 15 percent a year on your heating bill — a savings of as much as 1 percent for each degree if the setback period is eight hours long.

Upgrade to two-stage heating

Most furnaces have single-stage heating systems, which deliver a blast of warm air followed by an off cycle and then another full blast of warm air, causing very noticeable temperature swings in the winter. Gain efficiency and comfort by upgrading to a two-stage system such as the American Standard’s Freedom 80 or 90 Two Stage Furnace — the first stage runs more than 80 percent of the time, and the second stage switches on only as needed to provide more heat.

Control the humidity

Static electric shocks, dry nasal passages and parched skin are signs that your home’s humidity is too low. A humidifier can be attached to your furnace to add moisture back into the air during the cold winter months. American Standard offers whole-house humidifiers with integral sensors that can be set to automatically control humidity levels within your home.

Ensure cleaner air

Believe it or not, the air inside your home can sometimes be more unhealthy than what’s outside, causing potential problems in your family’s health. American Standard’s air cleaners can be attached to the furnace and help remove unwanted particles from the air in every room of the house

Call 978-821-0651 to set up annual boiler/furnace cleaning.

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